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Thanks. I too thought that was a great technique to display moving parts.

That is FANTASTIC I love to here about this kind of outcome.

Thank you.

The pinion depth value varies between manufacture differentials and ring gear sets. Most manufactures do not publish an actual depth value however if you purchase an aftermarket gearset the pinion depth will be scribed on the top of the pinion. If you don't have a gauge and or a depth value the depth can be adjusted with a little trial and error and contact patch interpretation. Check out this video if you have not already seen it. ruclips.net/video/w2kneEjXw6E/видео.htmlsi=cuQFjHPxC7izDcfi and this one. ruclips.net/video/gk6imita0cc/видео.htmlsi=yUGQJvai8Y99p_RV. Here are a few more that may help. ruclips.net/video/UIIk305-zlQ/видео.htmlsi=8oW2ojF8PFmOQbMm , ruclips.net/video/QL-dmhfSj6k/видео.htmlsi=g3uqXnhLjbnSSYge , ruclips.net/video/_bUh9NEMldI/видео.htmlsi=IKPs7bDlqr20PvUU.

@@DrivelineMaster Thanks, appreciate your reply.

This video does not grind a flywheel but instead uses a cutting bit like cutting or machining a brake rotor. If the flywheel has hard spots created by excessive heat cutting can't remove them but grinding will. Cutting also leaves small spiral grooves almost like a threaded screw and it's not the preferred method to recondition a flywheel surface.

Technically, Yes as long as it will bolt in.

Too each their own. This technique works really well and is very consistent when done correctly. If you have a technique you are using by all means don't let me change how you get your pattern. Maybe make a video so we can all see what you feel works better. I have only been doing this for 40 years and I have tried a lot of different techniques. I find that this technique works best for me and constantly produces a pattern that is easy to see and read. Some techs may choose to use a wrench on a ring gear bolt or use a pry bar to rotate the ring gear instead of doing it by hand. I don't like to use the wrench because I feel it could change the torque on the bolt.

The purpose of the training video is to show how the pattern changes position based on pinion depth and not so much what is a correct or incorrect pattern. I have seen manufacture patterns that they say are acceptable that will turn your hair colors they are so unrealistic. The last pattern in this video is a little deep but far from being way too deep and in fact the last pattern in the video IN MY OPINION could be acceptable however I would make another attempt to bring it up a little more in an effort to seek perfection. One of the problems with contact patch patterns is that perfect is not often achievable and there is often a compromise that works. My rule that has served me well over 40 years is that if the pattern is not off the edge of the heel or toe and not too high on the face or too deep in the flank for both drive and coast then it will work without problems.

Very surprising.

Same problem and if you let it go long enough it will start to squeak. The correction is the same.

See if you can rent a floor jack that has a transmission adapter. They make these and they can be very helpful when doing this job on the ground. Do a internet search and you will see what I'm talking about.

@@DrivelineMaster okay I'll look into that n look it up. Thankyou for the reply back n information

Let me know if you have any questions.

I'm sorry I have not heard from anyone else who wanted to retrofit this diff into a non-M Chassis. I have had several viewers who wanted to manually control the M-Diff.

@@DrivelineMaster manual control is actually not a bad option. at least from my perspective i could see myself dialing the lock in as traction permits and fully lock on a launch or if i am trying to drift. should be pretty easy for me tobang out a controller box.

Take a look at the reference file that shows up at 28 seconds mark. Voltage starts out under the 20V line so most likely around 13 volts or so without using the cursors for a more accurate measurement. When the coil is grounded that voltage pull down to zero to saturate the coil windings. When the plug fires the ground is removed and there is a large voltage spike. This is about 120V. Then while the plug is arcing (called the spark line) the voltage holds for a short time (1.6 - 1.9 ms) for around 25 - 35 volts before it drops back down to 13 - 14 volts. Of course these voltages will vary a bit. It's the pattern you need to look at. Look at the switching on and off. Is it a clean square waveform with sharp corners. Is the voltage spike high enough and is the spark line long enough and leveled out. Are there a few oscillations after the spark line drops back to source voltage.

@@DrivelineMaster thanks for reply, can I test the primary voltage of an ac CDI scooter like that, cause I don't have an oscilloscope, or with a test light cause I have a severe misfire on my scooter

I'm not very familiar with scooters or CDI systems except that they are a form of electronic ignition for scooters and they have a coil with a primary and secondary. You can do some stuff with a digital millimeter (DMM) but you can't get to the details like you can with a scope. The voltage going into the coil should be battery voltage. A DMM with a duty cycle feature can be placed on the primary negative coil terminal to measure coil saturation time. Something we use to call dwell time. The coil should have primary and secondary ohm values that you can also do with a DMM and you can check power and grounds at the CDI box as long as you have the wiring diagram.

@@DrivelineMaster you mean put test leads in series or across the poles of the primary, thanks for reply

Negative lead on ground or battery negative. Red or positive lead on + positive side of the ignition coil and turn on the key. You should read battery voltage. if so, move the read lead to the negative side of the coil primary and place the meter to read duty cycle and crank the engine over. You should read something. I can't be certain but I would guess 25% - 35% or it could be the inverse of 65% to 75%.

If you have a clutch fork you will have a pivot ball and a throw out bearing and they will be connected even if you can't see the connection. There are however some vehicles that don't have a clutch fork (release fork) and therefore they do not have a pivot ball to lubricate. If you reply with your year, make, model and engine size I will try to look it up for you and see what I can find out.

@@DrivelineMaster Thanks for your answer man, i drive a toyota altezza build in 03, 3sge/ J160 6 Speed Manual ( the same transmission as the lexus is200 ) So far i know is my pilot bearing in the flywheel and my throw out bearing before the pressure plate ( thats the location that i can reach from the „fork cover“ )

Unfortunately the Toytoa Altezza is not sold in the USA and I only have access to repair information on vehicles sold in USA. Toyota is not one of the brands that did away with the release fork however some release fork designs put the pivot ball on the opposite side of the bell housing from the where the release fork extends through the bell housing access hole. You need to pull the rubber boot back from where the release fork extends out of the bell housing and find a way to look inside for the pivot ball. If all you see is the throw out bearing and you can't see a pivot ball then that means your pivot ball is on the opposite side of the bell housing and there is no way to lubricate it without removing the transmission.

@@DrivelineMaster Thanks for your time, i think the lexus is200 was sold in the usa the „J160-6 speed gearbox“ is the same like the one from altezza. But i‘m pretty sure that the pivot ball is on the other side like you say.

The reason for using grease instead of oil is because the thick grease helps to keep the grater spring from popping out during installation. Because the seal is being installed with a hammer or an impact device this can cause the grater (tension) spring to pop out of location. I have had this happen before and it means that I have to remove the seal to fix it. This often damages the new seal forcing the purchase of a second new seal. When I'm working on something off the vehicle and I can install a seal with a press (provides constant pressure and not hammering impact pressure) I normally use the same lubricant of what ever it is I'm working on. 45 years of using grease and specifically white grease without any known failures or come backs. I think it is save to use white grease in this application.

The tool I used was purchased from Snap-on however an internet search using the key word "Dowel Pin Removal Tool" got several hits of all different price ranges.

Thank you. I have a lot of new ideas in the electrical and more PS7 videos.

Unfortunately I can't ball park the cost of a bearing overhaul job. Labor cost and parts markup vary from location to location in the country. You can estimate the parts cost by looking up a bearing overhaul kit from Randy's worldwide. www.randysworldwide.com/shop/ring-and-pinion-gear-sets/. You should contact some local shops in your area for a labor price. Also not all shops will overhaul a diff even though it's not really that hard for a competent technician.

It took me a minute to understand what you were asking. Then I figured it out. I opened Pico 7 in demo mode and looked for a way to put the injector current ramp on channel A instead of channel B but I could not find a way to do this. I did a quick search with no answers if this is possible and if so, how to do it. Right now I would have to say that this feature did not transfer over to PS7. I'm not sure of the advantage to being able to do this other than it can be done in PS6.

@@DrivelineMaster Thank you for the reply! I use it in a school setting and had the students change the signals. I will have them do it by turning the different channels on and off.

Ah, Yes. Well at least you can get each test pattern on their respective channels.

Your not 100% wrong but your not 100% right either. The intro does say this is basic operation and at time stamps 4:03 it shows how the gears are locked with the sleeve and at time stamp 4:45 I talk about the blocker ring and conical gear surface being responsible for synchronization however I do a poor job of explaining how synchronization is accomplished, how the teeth get aligned and I don't even talk about how gear engagement is blocked if synchronization is not possible. (eg. like trying to shift into first gear while going 80mph, not going to happen) The original idea was to cover the basics and keep the video as short as possible. Adding that advanced level of details would make the video longer. All this means is I need a part 2 to get into the weeds more with beyond the basics or advanced functional details to fill in those gaps. Thanks for the part 2 idea.

@@DrivelineMaster Yes, I wasn't talking to you or about you. I was expressing my frustration with the difficulty in finding the more detailed explanation of how the blocker ring, the keys, and springs, and the shift sleeve work together. (As you can tell, I spent a couple hours this afternoon and finally figured it out on my own.) It would be great if you made a more detailed video--now that I get it (mechanical engineering is AMAZING) I will be making one also. It's fascinating. It's all about the smallest detail of the whole assembly: the spring and the particular shape of the keys. It effing blew my mind when it finally dawned on me how it all works together.

There was no offense taken. You are right I did leave out some real depth.

Every Transmission has several clutch packs and some vehicles have more than one transmission model. The most cost efficient way is to remove and disassemble the transmission to find out exactly what parts are needed to restore it to functionality. If you do have a burned up clutch pack it will be noticeable by a dark colored fluid and the fluid will smell burnt. The only way the fluid won't be dark or smell burnt from a burned up clutch pack is if someone changed the fluid before you had a chance to inspect it. There are different levels of overhaul kits starting with ones that only have gaskets and seals to ones that include all the clutch pack and maybe even a band if the trans has one.

What information are you looking for?

I believe that was 1st gear speed gear. The speed gear and the speed gear clutching teeth are all part of one gear assemble. The speed gears area also the free spinning gears check out from time stamp 2:44 to view the speed gear AKA free spinning gear.

I currently do not but it sounds like a good project. I will put this on my to do list. Unfortunately my honey due list is pretty long so it's not going to be right away. I will save your email and try to send you a note when I get it done.

I don't remember for sure but I don't think so. There are a lot of engines that use this style rear main seal.

Some are not click ratcheting overrun mechanisms but instead a friction drag. Because these can all very in tension I learned to use my own tightening feel that way I'm always consistent. I personally would not depend on those if the measurement is super critical where accuracy is down to within a 0.0001 of an inch.

@@DrivelineMaster Thank you

This is a hardware filter built into the Pico Scope and is not related to which amp clamp you are using. There is often a lot of noise associated with amp clamps. This filter removes noise and signals that are above 20kHz. You can do the test without using this setting but waveform interpretation can be more difficult due to excessive unnecessary noise from the amp clamp. Try it both ways, you can't hurt anything.

The relative compression test compares the compression of each cylinder to all the other cylinders. A small leak due to head gasket or valve sealing might be difficult to detect. It all depends on how much the compression is reduced from the leak. If the valve or head gasket is bad enough to cause a misfire there is a good chance you can detect some abnormalities with this test.

@@DrivelineMaster Thank you. have you ever used pressure transducer in cylinder to diagnor either head gasket or valve leaks.

Yes the WPS-500 pressure transducer is fabulous in-cylinder testing, Manifold vacuum testing, Exhaust pulse testing and all sorts of fluid pressure testing up to 500 PSI.